![]() If the film is so dry that it cracks when you flatten it, then nothing much will help, except maybe the humidity of your environment. If your film has been sitting around since World War II, a few more months or even another year won't matter. ![]() It may never become completely flat, but after a while it will be less troublesome to print or scan. Be patient and let it rest for a few weeks or months. The whole page will curl, but carefully flatten it with your hands and cover it with a large, heavy book. The best solution I have found, as another person here suggested, is to cut the curled film into strips that fit into the sleeves of plastic negative pages. (I described this problem in more detail in a post several years ago, but I can't find it now.) To my horror, the emulsion slid off the film base. This made the film even harder to scan or print than the previous curl, so I tried rewetting the film again by slowly feeding the tube into a sink of 68F water. The next morning, I was shocked to discover that the film had recurled - vertically! In other words, it had rolled itself lengthwise into a three-foot-long tube, about the same diameter as a cigar. I tried that with a tightly curled roll of b&w film from the 1950s, then hung it up to dry overnight, weighted at the bottom as if it were freshly developed film. The most difficult ones, I have to admit, still had too much curl in them, so instead of running them thru a scanner, I put them into a double glass sided printing frame to flatten the film, illuminated them from below and shot them with a macro lens mounted on a tripod.ĭefinitely DO NOT REWET the curled film. I've used this methodology to rescue some cannisters of rolled film which had sat for 40 or so years. At that point, I'd cut it into strips, and lay them in a book on clean paper for a week or so (but not add much weight, so as to not damage the emulsion) They should have flattened out enough to run thru whatever scanning or macro shooting device you desire. If it does, I'd attach a light weight to the loose end and let it hang a day or so. Let it sit several hours, unweighted and see if it uncurls a little more. At the end of that time, I'd then take one end of the roll and attach it to a film holder attached to a shower rod, or similar fixture in a bathroom in which some hot water has been run to increase the humidity (but not dripping all over everything). Place a jigger of water on the plate and invert a bowl over the film and water and leave it for a week or so. Here's how I'd approach it: place a coiled roll of film on one edge on a flat plate. It is probable that their moisture content has dissipated over time, so, I'd first add moisture. You definitely want to avoid cracking them, so a gentle approach is probably going to be most productive. Anyone with a safe, proven way to do this so I can copy them to a digital medium to show at a family reunion in 2 months (some talked about putting them in between heavy books for months). There have been some heated discussions, some not so polite, about the feasibility of re-wetting the film then gently squeegeeing it. I've read a few posts elsewhere which talk about a number of ways to straighten them out including saturation in lukewarm water, then immersion in Photoflo, then gravity drying, and another which involves reverse winding on reels and doing something similar. The ones I've looked at are in excellent, clean condition but have a nasty end to end curl. After my mother-in-law died, a few years ago, while cleaning out her house to sell, we came upon some developed, but as far as we know, unprinted rolls of 35mm film in small paper tubes which have been sealed for probably 70 some-odd years. Check out my selection and run your own tests to find the film that meets your expectations best.My father-in-law, during WWII, was involved with Stars and Stripes in the European theater. But it is possible to evaluate several general characteristics of a color film. ![]() Obviously, the results will depend on the type of camera and processing methods. Therefore, I suggest that you figure out in advance what exactly you are installing in the camera to match your vision. Each brand produces its own emulsion formula, which can give different shades for the same moments. If you require the best 35mm film in the digital age, you probably have a special artistic application for this item. ![]()
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